What Will Surprise You
Sometimes I can hardly believe it myself that I have been living in Cairo since 2009.
What started as a one-year break gradually turned into my expat life in Egypt.And this life is full of contrasts: intense, surprising, sometimes chaotic – and often very different from what you imagine beforehand.
Time and again, I meet people who have just arrived here and ask exactly the same questions I once asked myself. What can I really expect here? What do I need to get used to? And what might be completely different from what I think?
First Contacts and Networks
Networks – one of those modern buzzwords. A few weeks ago, a former colleague from myschool days reached out to me and asked whether an acquaintance of hers could ask me a fewquestions.
“Yes, of course,” I immediately replied, because I still remember how much insider tipshelped me in the beginning.
So I have just come back from a coffee meeting with Nina and her daughter Saskia (nameschanged), where many different realities of life came together.
Living in Egypt as a Teacher
Nina is a teacher – just like I was here for many years.“What do I need to keep in mind when dealing with students here?” she asks directly, stirring her café au lait.
“Well,” I think, “quite a few things come to mind.”I still clearly remember how shocked I was at the beginning when I stood in front of a groupof mostly Egyptian boys, full of temperament and with very different ideas about calmness and order than I had. Of course, a teacher should pass on their values, provide structure – but also remain open to new perspectives. Otherwise, why go to an international school in the first place?
What helped me most here in Cairo was one thing above all: respect for another culture, genuine interest in people, and at the same time a clear definition of roles. In the classroom, I am the boss – but on equal footing.
I learned that the best way to reach an Egyptian – whether a student or an adult – is through the heart. If you open yours, you receive so much in return.
Still, having strong nerves certainly doesn’t hurt, because you first have to learn how to handle the temperament and liveliness of the people here.
A Memory That Stays
I remember a very special moment when one day my doorbell rang and two former students stood outside. They had long since graduated. One of them, in particular, had often struggled with discipline at school, as it was not easy for him to follow certain rules.
We had many conversations back then, and I always saw that he was an intelligent boy who simply needed more time with some things.
That day, they came to visit me – simply to say thank you. For my support back then. And to tell me that both of them were now successfully studying.
I admit: I was deeply moved. Memories like these are like colorful beads on a string – and you treasure them. I would say: something like this only happens in Egypt.
Living in Egypt as a Woman
“And what is it like outside of school?” Saskia asks, who herself works in a very different kind of international environment. “What do I especially need to consider as a woman?”
Spontaneously, the topic of clothing comes to mind. It doesn’t hurt to adapt a little by not walking around the city in spaghetti straps or shorts. Even then, you have nothing to fear – but for me personally, it is a matter of respect toward another culture.
Apart from that, there is no need to be afraid here. “I have felt safe here from the very beginning,” I tell Saskia. Of course, this also depends on age and who you are with.
In general, I now consider Cairo to be safer than many places in Germany – whether for a woman or a man.
Clichés and Reality
“And one more thing,” I add, “this constant prejudice that all women here are oppressed just because many wear headscarves is simply wrong.”
There is a huge spectrum in society: very modern, young businesswomen – with or without a headscarf, which is more of a personal decision.
Of course, there are also very traditionally dressed women, up to full veiling. You may not always understand everything – but you can feel the diversity. Muslims and Christians live peacefully side by side and celebrate each other’s holidays.
Public Holidays in Egypt
“Yes,” Saskia says, “I’ve already noticed – there are so many public holidays here.”
“Convenient as an employee,” I reply, “not so much as a business owner.” Because I no longer work as a teacher, but together with my husband in our tourism company, which focuses on tours beyond the crowds.
During the high season, you sometimes need strong nerves when employees want to follow the official holiday schedule.
“Which are the most important holidays?” Nina asks. Well, for Muslims, the most important ones are the so-called small and big feasts after Ramadan and about six weeks later. The big one is the Feast of Sacrifice (Eid al-Adha),commemorating Abraham and Isaac
My First Feast of Sacrifice
I also have a very special memory of my first Eid here. At the time, I lived on the fourth floor of an apartment building, and I had been told beforehand that it might be a good idea to be somewhere else that day, as the slaughtering taking place everywhere in the streets is not necessarily for the faint-hearted.
So I thought: I’ll follow that advice. And arranged a day trip with a friend. Cheerfully, I stepped out of my apartment that morning – and found myself in a staircase through which an actual stream of blood was flowing.
What I hadn’t expected: that residents would slaughter an animal right in front of their apartment door – not outside.
And the traces had not yet been fully removed…
Bravely, I made my way downstairs and disappeared into a taxi for the planned day trip, which did indeed take me away from the scene. But – as you can imagine – I will never forget that day.
Nina and Saskia laugh in disbelief. The upcoming Feast of Sacrifice will take place at the end of May – so they can gather their own experiences then.
Traffic in Cairo
“Do you drive here yourself?” Nina asks. “No,” I reply firmly.
“You’ve probably already noticed that traffic here follows different rules.
At first glance, it seems more than chaotic. However, many foreigners get used to it quite quickly, because people don’t just follow strict rules – they drive more by instinct and eye contact.”
“Well, I’ll have to take a closer look at that,” Nina replies.
Travel Beyond the Crowds
“But another question: can we spontaneously book a tour with your company – what exactly do you offer?”
“Our current highlights include a tour through the oases of the Western Desert,” I reply, immediately noticing Nina’s eyes light up.
“Yes, the landscape here is so diverse,” I add. “Each oasis has its own unique charm.” “And of course, there is also our boat on Lake Nasser.”
“Oh!” Saskia interrupts. “I’ ve always wanted to go on a Nile cruise.”
“No,” I clarify. “We sail on Lake Nasser – that’s behind the dam in Aswan and something completely different.”
The Magic of Lake Nasser
Sounds exciting,” Nina and Saskia say – and I can only agree. Whenever I think of our little gem on Lake Nasser, my heart beats faster.
The magic of the lake, the comfort of the boat, and the attentiveness of the crew never fail to impress.
That special feeling when the ropes are cast off, the engine starts humming softly, and themboat glides in a gentle curve out onto the lake – it fascinates everyone who loves to travel.
How Long Do You Actually Stay?
“Oh,” Nina says, “I’ve planned to stay for two years for now – but I already feel like that won’t be enough to see everything Egypt has to offer.
I might just stay here during all my holidays.”
“Yes,” I confirm, “it never gets boring here.”
The Special Energy of the Country
For me, it is always this special energy that pulses through this country and fascinates me.
Of course, there are enough challenges, and not everything is always perfect.
But you often have the feeling that the next little miracle might already be waiting just around the nextcorner.
Farewell in Spring
“Thank you,” Nina and Saskia say at the end.
“Now we are even more excited about our time here.”
Smiling, I say goodbye, step out of the café into the pleasant spring air – and wonder what the rest of the day will bring.